Sunrise atop Gunung Agung

Journal Entry 4

June 7th, 2002

"Fulfilling Sentence in Gili Air"

 

Currently stationed on Gili Air, a small island (about 1/2 mile square) off the NW coast of Lombok, an Indonesian island. No police here. Only electricity is supplied by generators. No motorized transport here. Only narrow dirts paths. You either walk or pay someone to take you via a donkey-pulled cart.

Staying in a bamboo/thatch bungalow on stilts, 50' from the ocean on the north side of the island. A day in the life...yesterday, woke up mid-morning (don't bother with a clock), had breakfast consisting of tea, fresh papaya and pineapple, and a pineapple pancake (included in the $1.50 per day that I'm paying for the room), snorkeled off the coral reef for a while, ate lunch with some friends, had some tea, did some more snorkeling on the reef, walked on the beach, had supper at sunset on the beach (in outdoor hut on stilts, sitting on pillows cross-legged), then had another supper (whole fresh bbq'd barracuda, head and all) while watching the World Cup game with lots of Indonesians and some other travelers in an open hut with geckos running all over the place. Spent whole day wearing my swimsuit and flip-flops...paradise!

So how did I get here? Back to Bali...

Only surfed for 2 days...my knees got pretty chafed from the surfboard. So I headed inland to Ubud to allow some recovery time. Haven't been back yet to surf, may not get back, even though I loved it.

Travelled with some nice Canadian ladies for several days there. Rented a motorbike. Toured around the countryside for two days and made friends with two random Balinese families. Got invited into a home way out in the sticks. Had a nice meal of tea, rice cakes, and salats, a quite wonderful and strange fruit (size of prune, pit like horse chestnut, tartness of crabapple, taste of pineapple, texture and composition of garlic).

Saw lots of temples, including some surreal ceremonies. Beautiful terraced rice paddies...motorbike is truly the way to see a country!

Went to a monkey forest and had a tug of war with a hissing monkey over my camera lens bag. I won. Not advised procedure, but I had my rabies preexposure shots as insurance and that lens was expensive.

From there, bought bus ticket to Candidasa, but changed my mind en route and got off early in Padang Bai, a small village on the ocean in eastern Bali.

Met some English folks there and decided to climb Ganung Agung, the highest mountain (actually a volcano) in Bali. About 3200m/10000ft. Pretty amazing considering the top is 10km/6mi from sea level! After a crazy adventure in our rented jeep, we found a guide for the trek at Pura Besakih, the biggest temple in Bali.

Our trek started at 11pm. After a haunting Hindu prayer service at midnight at an isolated temple up in the hills (req'd for everyone that does the trek), we hiked all night with flashlights, and summitted around 7am, 2200m/8000ft and about 15km/9mi later. Enjoyed the view of the neighboring Ganung Batur volcano/crater lake (incredible!), and Gunung Rinjani, a 3700m/11000ft peak on neighboring Lombok (This is the climb I originally planned to do. However, there have been numerous robberies of trekkers on that island lately. Not cool.).

To fully recover my rest and strength, I decided to sentence myself to a few days here on Gili Air.

I'd planned to go back to Bali to do some more surfing, but now I'm unsure. I'm traveling with an English bloke, and we met up with some Americans who are headed another way, so I may not get back there. I feel like a human pinball--plans always changing, bouncing around--it's great fun. Life has become an unending sequence of happy, unexpected, random events.

 


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