July 23rd, 2002
"Chillin' in
Picked up my Chinese visa last Monday, and took a high-speed ferry to
Notes written on 18JUL02:
First day in
Remember that thing called the alphabet? Gone. Everything is in Chinese script.
If you can't read it or write it, forget it. When I need something, I open my
phrasebook, and meticulously scrawl the notes on the backs of tickets, receipts,
whatever's handy.
So, second day in
Well, at the first stoplight, the bus turned off, went a block north, and
started west. Decided to wait it out instead of getting off and cutting my
losses right away. Bus kept going west, right off my map. So I got off. Walked
around a bit, past blocks and blocks of shops selling nothing but porcelain
toilets and sinks. Rolled the dice and hopped on the first eastbound bus I saw.
Dumped me off in a suburb somewhere. The combination of a sudden downpour and my
walking past a barbershop was enough to convince me I needed a
haircut. I am quite positive that I am the first non-Chinese person ever to get
my haircut there. After lots of handwaving and smiling, I emerged with a
halfway-decent haircut.
Stumbled across the subway station. Got on, took subway to within about 1/2 mile
of the ticket office. Again, asked directions no less than 8 times...I've
learned that asking at every intersection is the best bet. Got there (finally)
and purchased my ticket.
Decided to walk back to hostel.
En route, ate at a local place. My meals so far have been purchased by pointing
to some script in a menu, about middle-price range. In this case, I got rice
with what I believe to be turtle meat, though I've been unable to verify. I've
also had mushrooms, and ended up with pork-knuckles in noodles twice (most
recently this morning--what a breakfast!).
Got back to the hostel in a very self-congratulatory mood. I had Beat the
System, though it took me 2 buses, a subway ride, a long walk, a haircut, and
about 4 hrs to get the train ticket I could've got in minutes had I paid someone
a few bucks. I showed off my ticket to a fellow traveller who speaks a bit of
Mandarin (Chinese).
Turned out it was a bus ticket, not a train ticket, and it was leaving from an
obscure station not listed on any of the maps in the guidebook. The
English-speaking receptionist didn't know where it was either and advised me to
take a taxi as "maybe driver will know where."
Had a good laugh over that one.
Went to a local market, where I saw many species of live turtles, various birds,
scorpions, cockroaches, eels, fish, cats, and dogs. Bushels and bushels of dried
seahorses, too. Not sure what they're good for.
23JUL02: My bus ticket that day worked out fine, though I was the ONLY passenger
on the 9 hour journey...doesn't seem economical for them, but...
Got to Yangshuo, a small town in a beautiful countryside (but packed with
foreigners). Spent 4 or so days there, doing remarkably little, now that I think
of it. Rented a bike a couple days, did a boat trip down the river, posed for
pictures with Chinese people (they called me Bill Clinton #2 at my cafe for some
reason--he visited here a few years back), ate at a local's house twice, took
some pictures. It rained every day, but didn't really hinder my time there.
My most uneventful day of the trip occurred Sunday. Slept till 9:30am, went to
my favorite cafe, sat outside, ordered a pot of tea...a few friends stopped by
over the course of time, a waitress taught me to play Chinese chess, and lots of
people practiced English with me. 6hrs and 3 pots of tea later, I returned to my
hotel for an hour-long nap (tired from my tough day), read a book, then returned
to laze away the rest of the evening at the cafe.
Yesterday, went rock climbing for first time of trip. Excellent! Limestone,
bolted sport routes. This place is going to be a huge climbing destination once
it's fully discovered.
So I'm fully refreshed and ready to hit the trail again. Today, a French dude
and I came to Longsheng, about 3 hrs from Yangshuo. Seen lots of rice terraces
in
Once again, had some interesting food while guessing at the menu--today, had a
plate piled high with chopped pig intestines...little tubes about the size of
your pinky from the last joint up. Eating them closely resembles gnawing on
pieces of spicy chewing gum. Not bad if you can get past the thought of what
you're eating. With a stunning lack of foresight, I never memorize the symbols
of foods that I don't want again, so I'm virtually assured of getting this again
at some point.
General thoughts:
It's quite remarkable to be outdoors every day, all day. Can't really picture a
time in my life that this has happened. Summers as a kid come close, but even
portions of those were spent inside an A/C house. Speaking of...I always dreamed
of a time when it could be like summer vacation as a kid again--without worries,
troubles, and stresses. I never thought it possible, but I guess I was wrong.
Only now, the playground is much larger...
"...as muddy
water is best cleared by leaving it alone, it could be
argued that those who sit quietly and do nothing are making one of
the best possible contributions to a world in turmoil." (-Alan Watts)
Away Awhile is hosted by Josh Trutwin.