Journal Entry 15

January 24th, 2003

"Really Had No Choice..."

 

This is a short one. Judging from a lot of responses I got, my last post must've made it sound like I wasn't enjoying India. Far from the case. However, I did run into a dilemma...

I decided I was really sick of public transport--buses, trains, rickshaws, stations, timetables, lateness--not just in India, but in general. So the way I saw it I only had two options: come home or buy a motorcycle, and I'm not comin' home yet.

Drove my motorcycle and ownership papers back to my hotel today. Since my back-fired horse-buying venture in Mongolia, I decided I better shop around more this time. I looked around for a few days in Delhi before settling on one that I could watch being totally rebuilt in front of me. Replaced all electronics, rebuilt the engine, replaced the clutch and all chains/cables/lights/brakes/etc, new alternator, the works. I had them hold off on a new paint job, because it looks cool just the way it is.

The mechanics who overhauled it used the following tools for all that: big hammer, small hammer, big flathead screwdriver, small flathead screwdriver, wrench set, crescent wrench, big pliers, and a small pliers. Then there were the "specialty" tools that were used only occasionally: tinsnips, piece of a broken hacksaw blade, bent up nail with a flattened tip, rat-tail file, flat file, pipe wrench, metal rod, assorted pipes and sockets--some welded to t-bars, and a piece of paper serving as a feeler gauge. High tech, huh?

The cycle? 1993 Enfield Bullet. Enfield is a British motorcycle company that set up a factory in India in the 1950's. They went under, but the Indian factory still shoots out new motorcycles not much different than they were back in the day. Single-cylinder 350 cc with 18 hp, kickstart, incredibly primitive, looks a bit antique--perfect! I'm very happy with it. It's black, a bit rusty, chopper handlebars, luggage rack, front guards...looks and sounds like a beast! I'll have to try to get a picture online sometime.

They're cool bikes, but Enfields are not famous for reliability. Talked to a guy a while ago who'd been touring for 5 months with one and said something needs fixing about every 2 days. The good thing is that parts are cheap and most things can be fixed with a screwdriver and a BFH.

So I'm off tomorrow. Leaving Delhi at sunrise before the Indians are awake, so I can escape the city alive. In addition to avoiding traffic, it'll be a good chance for me to get used to the bike. Everything is the same, except...the rear brake and the gear shifter are swapped from the usual, like on my bike at home. Try that one out when you're used to the other way around.

Life should get interesting soon, and I'm excited.

'There is only one success--to be able to spend your life in your own way' (-Christopher Morley)

 

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