Getting a shave in Delhi

Journal Entry 22

September 17th, 2003

"Every Now and Then I Fall Apart"

 

Hi!

Life seen through rose-colored glasses is good. But they're getting scratched. Cheap plastic lenses. India.

Funny...it wasn't until I left India that I realized how "backwards" it really is. Really. And I was also there long enough that for the next month, I'd convert prices to rupees, not dollars. It was nice being able to piss wherever you wanted as well.

I've been learning a lot. Never read a book under a coconut tree. If you tell an Indian pharmacist you want something for sleeping and he gives you "diazepam", you should know it's Valium.

My camel-leather sandals are shot. Completely wore through them after seven months. However, in Hoi An, Vietnam, got a street cobbler to resole them with a fresh strip of tire rubber, or the like. Almost good as new!

Met a woman who said that if you spend too much time in Asia, you can never quite handle the West again. You miss it too much, and never quite feel settled anymore.

My Asian trip is coming closer to an end. I've taken out my world map, and it seems I've covered it reasonably well, with large chunks of time devoted to mainland Asia, southeast Asia, and the Indian subcontinent. I've left sizeable gaps here and there, but I've got a lifetime (well, two-thirds of one, anyway) to fill those in. It is somewhat disturbing though, to have travelled for so long and see such a little piece of the world on a map!

Somewhere along the line, I seem to have become a "city" person. I always hated the cities (well, not hate, but like less, anyway), but now I really love how you can kinda melt into a city.

Have you ever stopped to look at a chicken? I mean, really watch? They have to be the f*$%ing stupidest animals that ever lived. Can't they walk without moving their heads? And why the hell can't they doing anything in fluid motion. It's like watching something move with a strobe light on. Now ducks, they at least seem like they might be hiding some intelligence behind slightly airheaded tendencies.

Became a millionaire for the third time of my trip a couple weeks back. Funny exchange rates.

Countries with shitty governments post the "People's Demands" publicly. You'd think this would be redundant or something. Needless to say, I don't think the "people" agree with them.

Fourteen months and I ended up back in Bangkok where I started. Strange. It seemed so different. I'll be back for the third time soon...

I don't rightly know if I'm ageing slower or faster. The happy relaxed part of travel would indicate the former; the hassles and uncomfortable sleeping and sicknesses would indicate the latter. I am starting to feel broken in a bit, like that shirt that you've worn a thousand times. Hopefully I don't wear out or get holes, like all my clothes.

One stat I forgot to add to my one-year update: spent a total of $834 on lodging in those first twelve months...

I'd like to build a log raft and float down a nice easy river in Canada or somewhere when I get back. Let me know if you're interested in joining me.

I've found that each place really becomes a home. If I'm only staying one night, my pack remains relatively intact. If I know it'll be even one night more, things explode: books are lined up, clothes are everywhere, the place becomes a temporary, messy apartment.

Important! As I make my way south, I want to check if the toilet water really flushes in the opposite direction in the southern hemisphere. Thing is, I have no idea which way it flushes back home (and most toilets don't flush properly here). So please email me, everybody...can be a simple message, just stating clockwise or counter-clockwise (and what hemisphere you're in). When my survey is complete, and I've tested the waters (ha!) down south, I'll report the results. Thanks!

Convinced that my back is becoming a chiropractor's dream...sixteen months of strange hard beds and bench seats on buses and trains.

Can't recommend smoking a Burmese cheroot backwards.

People sometimes ask how it is being an American...well, it's fine. Yeah, I get the George W. Bush and Iraq questions sometimes, less so of late. Actually the worst part is (some) other Westerners. I've met a few who will outright say they HATE Americans. And they're not afraid to tell you what's wrong with America. Gee, that's really enlightened. OK, I'm sorry, I take the same line as a recent American woman I met: ask me, and I'll talk for an hour about what's wrong with my country. But tell me what's wrong with it (especially if you've never even set foot in it and get all your impressions from movies and 90210 re-runs), and I'll defend it. More on this later... But before I bitch too much, I must note that like anything, there are good and bad people everywhere.

I read online recently a new survey that reported that many American pets are overweight. Do people really care about things like this? I always figured we have enough other problems without inventing new ones. It seems so comical.

I've really done my best to buy at least one tube of toothpaste in every country. For that reason, I always buy small tubes. I may have missed Mongolia...can't really remember anymore.

I learned in college that it wasn't so much that I learned engineering, but I learned to think like an engineer...which allows you to ultimately become a good one. So college was like "engineer training." I've found that similarly, I'm now in a different type of training..."traveller training?" It's funny, but you really do start to change the way you think...thought patterns, new sets of issues to deal with on a daily basis. You still have problems. You still have errands to run (you'd be surprised!). You still have stress. It's just a different type, that's all. Examples: where and when to eat, and whether to contribute to the Roth IRA this year, or forget about retirement so you can travel longer, or to stay in town and pay more, or out of town and walk more.

Pulled out my first gray hair on July 16, 2003. Bummer. Well, I almost made it to 27, anyway, and feel better knowing lots of friends found them earlier than I did.

It's true...you start to forget. It's hard for me to imagine/remember what the "normal" life was like back in the USA.

And...it's hard to say what the "real world" is. I used to think about a return to the US as going back to the "real world." But really, it's more of an artificial world, it seems. Asia is much more organic and basic. In comparison, the West seems so sterile and plastic and climate-controlled. Not that it's bad...just different.

Most days are happy, a few are melancholy. Lately, I've been quite manic. I'm enjoying travel more than ever. So no, I'm not burnt out, yet. Almost the opposite in fact.

Something annoying? Fan. With the windows open, can keep a room quite cool. Now it doesn't take a thermodynamacist to figure out that a fan itself generates heat, and that in a closed room, the heat's got nowhere to go. You'd be surprised at how many people will close the door and windows, leave the fan running, and be surprised when they return and you can fry an egg on the floor. Having spent a fair number of nights in shared dorm-rooms, I can attest to the fact that many people fully expect that when they do this, it'll cool the room down. I don't know what I mean to accomplish by bitching here in this email, though.

Remembering the first time I ever ate in a restaurant alone. Bruges, Belgium. March 1999. My first big trip. My friend Brent had just returned to the States and I was alone. It was weird eating in a restaurant alone. Really. Now...I love it. No self-consciousness. Good time to chill.

If anyone wants to know two things that'll make third-world travel (or perhaps any international travel) more fun and easy, here they are: (1) knowing to fluently count and ask how much and thank you and hi in each language, and (2) smile. You'd be astounded at how much these two things will make, especially #2 if you don't have #1 down yet. And it's surprising how many people don't bother with either...

Somehow, I've come to love coffee: the taste itself, not just the accessories. Never thought it possible.

So I sit in a sweltering, dusty Vietnamese/Cambodian border town. I have 72 hours to cross two countries to get to Bangkok before my brother arrives. This will, in order, (I think) involve the following means of transport, if all goes as I think/hope: bus-boat-boat-bus-bus-boat-boat-tuktuk-bus/train-bus. Should put me there the day of the night he arrives. Again: I hope.

In addition to being very excited to see Steve (my other brother), I have even more to look forward to: He's bringing me Toastettes, Corn Nuts, Blueberry Morning (cereal) and Great Grains (cereal)...and a batch of my mom's Special K bars. And new boxers. There is no decent underwear to be found in Asia.
They say, or I've said, that you take a piece of each place with you when you leave. But a more disturbing thing is when you feel that you're leaving a piece of yourself behind in each place. There're pieces everywhere and sometimes it seems that it will be really really impossible to get them all back together. Bummer.

More updates on my summer are forthcoming. Remember to let me know about the toilet thing.

Gotta run.

"So we placed his face in a smash-proof case and placed it...in the fridge." (-Legendary Pink Dots)

 


All rights reserved

Away Awhile is hosted by Josh Trutwin.