Only in America...

Journal Entry 44

January 13th, 2005

"Made in America"

 

My last update told the details, this one tells the thoughts.

America. I've heard so much bad-mouthing of the place over the past few years that I forgot how nice it actually is. Being back has given me a chance to rediscover (or discover) that. I don't want to offend anyone, American or otherwise, by anything in this email, but I probably will. Sorry especially, in advance, to friends who live in the suburbs.

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Landing in the capitol, Washington, DC, was such a perfect return! As my friend Kris actually had to work for the first few days I was there, I had plenty of time to wander and absorb. I toured museums, walked through neighborhoods (some gritty, some nice), browsed shops, and visited monuments, and I was struck by the energy of the place. People rip on us, call us naive, misguided. But there is a certain spirit that you feel in this country that I haven't felt elsewhere. I guess it could be called freshness, idealism, a place of good intentions. Whatever it is, it's real, and it's nice, if simple at times.

What things struck me?

Blue US Postal Service boxes on random street corners. Skim milk, almost clear in color. Wide streets. Guys wearing baseball hats. American flags. Orange and black school buses. Rows of coin-op newspaper boxes. Cheap prices (compared to Europe!). American accents. Horrid beer selection at bars. Bland cheese. Massive serving sizes at restaurants. Unnecessarily small musical devices. Blue jeans. Wal-Mart. Kraft powdered parmesan cheese in the big green container. Orange oranges, perfectly round, uniform, and neatly stacked into pyramids at the supermarket. Lightswitch-activated fireplaces. Getting carded for alcohol when you're 28 years old, even when you're at a restaurant with your parents! Wireless internet. The daily crossword puzzle in a newspaper. Trashy talk shows. Lo-Carb obsession (when did eating bread become evil?). Microwaves in every home. Soft water that makes you feel like soap never washes off. Reality TV. Pets everywhere. Clean, available public toilets. Central heating. Rocking chairs. Televised poker (when did this begin?). Used CD shops and bookstores. Electric can openers.

Then, the people: I go for a run and people wave, smile, say 'good morning.' I can ask anyone a question, in English, and receive a reply, in English. Random conversations, whether I'm in a supermarket, waiting for a light on a street corner, on a bus, or going up an elevator. I still can't get over the incredible friendliness of strangers here!

So, when I landed in Washington, DC, I looked around and knew I was in America again. When I landed in Minnesota, I knew I was back where I spent my first 25 years. Maybe people don't realize how different regions within the US can be, but you can really feel it.

Some other observations/opinions:
* I was under the impression that 2004's presidential election wasn't a big deal here. I was wrong. Many people get a bit passionate when talking about it, and I found that voter turnout was 60%, the highest since 1968.
* Americans, I believe, are the most news-hungry people on earth. Every day is dominated by newspapers, TV news, internet news. We're seen as a bit ignorant, and probably are--about the world outside America--but on a more local level, we're obsessed with news.
* So much space! I'd venture to guess that my city and its suburbs (1.5-2 million people) is probably similar in overall size to, say, Paris and its suburbs (11 million). The difference in the density is incredible, and is a huge reason why public transport is difficult to implement here.
* We make fun of ourselves. Maybe not as much as the British, but there is something to be said for a society that can laugh at itself so readily and in so many forms (cartoons, late-night talk shows, on the radio, etc.). I don't know what it is, though.
* People are content here. A few, perhaps, seem jealous of having the means and desire to travel, but I've found that most people are happy just to hear about my trip without wanting to try it out. They are aware that they've made choices that separate their lives' paths from mine, but like me, are comfortable with those choices. I think I used to see people doing the regular American-dream thing as being stuck in a rut, but accept now that they (many, not all) do make choices, just different than mine.
* Americans don't look each other in the eyes when doing the 'cheers' thing over drinks. Now I know why I never did either, until I started travelling with people from other countries.
* Modern suburbs make me want to cry. Acres and acres of homes that look exactly alike but sold on the basis of how different they are than the neighbors'. On a cul- de-sac, of course. Golf course nearby. Target (or any other national-chain department store), Olive Garden (or any other national-chain restaurant), Starbucks (or any other national-chain coffee shop), Cub Foods (or any other national-chain supermarket), Bally's (or any other national-chain gym) all a mere stone's throw away. Convenience? Certainly. Character? Riiiiigghht.

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As I've done for most countries, it's now America's turn for the rundown on food:

* Hostess/Little Debbie snacks...what American children are raised on. The three that deserve special mention are the Twinkie (yellow sponge cake magically filled with white airy creme), the Swiss Cake Roll (chocolate cake rolled around white creme, then dipped in a chocolate coating), and the Oatmeal Creme Pie (two soft oatmeal cookies glued together by the same white creme as the previous two snacks). Sinful, all, but delicious.
* Peanut butter and jelly on white sandwich bread.
* Apple pie and pumpkin pie. Self-explanatory.
* Chips and salsa. The great American snack/appetizer.
* Hamburgers, served with fries and ketchup. Origins elsewhere, but what you get here is American to the core.
* Pizza. Take-out, homemade, ready-made, frozen, restaurant. Of no relation to the Italian variety.
* Cheese puffs. How do I describe these bastardizations of nature? They are light, puffy, radioactive-orange-colored balls of unknown origin, dusted with some chemical that makes them almost glow. They taste nice.
* Macaroni and cheese. Kraft. Takes 15 minutes. College staple.
* Doritos. Corn chips coated with flavouring, a dozen varieties. A necessary accessory for watching American football.
* Microwave popcorn. Butter flavored.

...Since Americans are basically mutts, our food is mostly just bastardizations of ethnic foods from regions around the world. In general, take some country's traditional dish, and add more cheese and salt, and I think you have the American version.

I have to add some Midwestern/Minnesota favorites as well:
* Casseroles: A casserole is any combination of pasta, tater tots (shredded and formed potatoes ), vegetables, and canned soup...mixed together, and baked in a rectangular glass dish until golden brown on top and bubbling underneath.
* Fruit salad: A fruit salad is any chilled combination of marshmallows, whipped cream, and canned fruit (to make it 'healthy'). Occasionally with bits of ground-up candy bars thrown in for good measure. Always served in a glass or Tupperware bowl.
* Lefse: It seems whether or not you have Norwegian heritage, this thin potato pancake (covered with butter and sugar and rolled up) is served around the holidays.
* Bars: This one is tricky, but wonderfully diverse. You have the basics: butter, flour, sugar (all forms), and eggs. Now add any form of packaged snack or cereal (i.e. rice krispies, Special K, caramel, chocolate chunks, candy bars, M&Ms, granola, oats, marshmallows). Chop it up, mix it in. If it's sweet you can pull it off. Be zany. Bake it. Chill it. Cut it into squares. Serve it in a low rectangular Tupperware container. It'll be a hit.

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At first I saw returning almost as giving in, a betrayal. But I've come to see that whether or not I continue travelling, it was a necessary step for me. There's more to say there but I can't be bothered now.

Slowly, normalcy resumes. At the moment, I'm driving my brother's car (formerly mine), wearing clothes that I owned three years ago, sitting on a rocking chair, listening to my old music. My hair is short again, so I'm no longer called Jesus, Kurt Cobain, or a dirty hippie. I'm home, everyone knows I'm home. How do things return to normal so soon?

It's cold here. I live on frozen tundra.

My lifestyle hasn't changed. I wander, and stay in the same place an average of two nights, never anywhere for more than five. I'm homeless, phoneless, and relatively aimless. I still carry around scraps of paper to jot things on when I don't have a journal with me. I had anticipated being shocked by changes in people I knew, but found only situations/circumstances had changed, not the people themselves. A shock in itself, and I'm still not sure if it's more disturbing or comforting.

Conversations with people have been nice. In general, people don't bother to talk about my trip so much, which is fine by me. Little stories occasionally pop up, but the focus seems to be on other things, as they would have been three years ago, before I left.

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In conclusion, love it or hate it, America is a unique place, and full of wonderful, friendly people (at least in the North). Being back has been, and is, a strange and somewhat emotional experience for me, even if I don't show it.

That's all I guess. If I decide to do something exciting with myself (which I do hope/plan to do), I'll tune back in. I've never been a fan of predictability and will do my best to avoid it.

"Sorry about the email, but I'm home and the novelty of me being home with my family and friends has worn off. I only have my memories of a glorious trip where I met some wonderful people to get me by. Don't think of visiting me yet in the short term as I am unemployed and homeless, but I hope things will improve soon. My photos have turned out alright and it seems most of the gifts I sent home all made it. But what the bloody hell am I going to do with a turban and mum thinks the sari was a nice thought but she will never wear it. Inconsiderate bitch. A lot of thought went into that. Anyway if anyone gets bored and wants to do a bit of communicating I am right here waiting for you." (Brett Stone, a travelling friend of mine)

 


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