Man in Tigray, northern Ethiopia

Journal Entry 53

July 22nd, 2005

"Abyssinian Days"

 

OK, so I arrived in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, amid a turbulent week in which 40 people were killed--political riots. Hmm... Things were wrapping up however, and though my first morning in Addis saw empty streets and closed shops and pickups full of armed soldiers on patrol, normalcy resumed, the troubles were over.

First stop: Harar, in the east, near the Somali border. A walled city, apparently the fourth holiest Muslim town in the world. Kind of a dump however, and filled with people who do nothing but chew 'chat' all day. This is a mildly stimulating, very bitter leaf, that you must literally chew hands-ful of for several hours to get the effect of, say, a good double expresso. Waste of time, but when 90% of population unemployed, I suppose, why not?

Next, back to Addis, then up north, for all the following...

...Gondar: picture Scottish castles, and beautiful medieval paintings in a Christian church, both surrounded by stone walls complete with towers. In Africa. Yeah, that's what I thought...

...and Axum, long ago one of Africa's three most important cities (with Alexandria and Phoenicia/Tunis, if I recall correctly), now a dusty backwater marked only by steles, one as high as 23m (80'), from nearly two millenia ago. And the church that (supposedly) still houses the Arc of the Covenant, though they don't let anyone see it.

...and the ancient churches/monasteries of Tigray, up near the Eritrea border, set amid jagged dry peaks--truly biblical landscapes--and tended by equally-ancient robed priests wielding iron crosses.

...and Lalibela, probably one of the wonders of the world, the site of more than a dozen churches carved out of solid rock, inside and out! Complete with jagged steps, narrow passageways, and caves. And white-robed villagers, many of whom seem out of another century.

Now, to throw a twist in, I travel to the south. Omo Valley, down near Sudan and Kenya. Nearby, the villages of Konso: winding stone alleyways connect compounds of stone and thatch houses, each topped with a broken pot for a steeple! And further west, home of the Mursi people...you've seen them before: the women with the 15cm (6") flat plates in their lower lips. And that's only one of the tribes down here...

...just to see them took me the luckiest hitch of my life, a ride in a Land Rover with 4 Danes (who I ended up spending four days with) that involved getting stuck in the middle of a river, twice, and a little safari on a road that surpasses anything you've seen in an SUV commercial, amid a backdrop of lush valleys and beautiful hills. Even picked up some bare-assed hitch-hiking locals.

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Ethiopia. Amazing culture. Fascinating history. Beautiful scenery that ranges from sea level up to a few thousand meters, encompassing the Rift Valley and the Nile River, complete with terraced fields like I haven't seen since Asia, and mountains, and goat herders clad in earth tones, wielding crooked canes. Even some wildlife: troops of baboons. Dikdiks. Colorful birds, big and small.

It's the ancient kingdom of Abyssinia. The only place in Africa not colonized by Europeans. They still have their own language and their own alphabet. And I believe the oldest intact form of Christianity.

To this, add the food, surely Africa's best! Injera: the staple, a fermented pancake, half-yard diameter. Topped with your choice: shiro wat (bean sauce), kai wat (spicy meat sauce), doro wat (chicken), or my favorite: bayinet (mixture of 3-10 vegetarian toppings, best on Wednesdays and Fridays, when Ethiopian Christians abstain from meat and dairy).

But there's more. Kitfo: raw ground lamb eaten with cheese, injera, and kocho (a dense, flat bread with the taste and texture of a damp bathmat). And some of the worlds finest coffee. And fresh yogurt with red pepper. And thick rich fruit juices. And you eat cacti here, surprisingly juicy and sweet!

And have I mentioned it's the lowest-priced country I've been in since leaving Asia?

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Ethiopia: Have I sold it? If so, read on:
This is probably the most pain-in-the-ass country I've ever been in.

'You! You!'
'Give me one birr!' (local currency)
'Where you go?!'
'Faranji, faranji' (white man)
'Give me money!'

And this not just from little children. It's adults as well.

Unending day after day on rickety buses, all of which board at 5am, with locals insist on closing every window (for 'health' reasons!) no matter what the temperature. Two separate incidents left me camera-less, and out of a few smaller items as well: a bit of cash, some pens. Violation.

More than one occasion of kids chasing and throwing stones, one nailing me in the head. I've never felt so much like I was in a zoo, where the people look at you, with little or no respect. I hate to generalize, because I did meet some wonderful people, but I've now travelled quite wide and far, and truly Ethiopia wins: The Hassle Capital of the World.

I've never been so ready to leave a country. Truly, I may have killed someone had I stayed much longer.

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But if I've left on a sour note, go re-read the top part again. I did have an amazing time. Ethiopia is a wonder, filled with sights and sounds and tastes that were exactly what I needed. Add that to spending 1.5 weeks with a like-minded Israeli traveller, David, and reuniting with my Irish friend Ian, who I first met 2.5 years ago in India...and I've been fully recharged.

A trend starts to form? I arrive in northern Kenya 3 days after a massacre in a remote northern district. 1000 bandits rage tribal warfare, opening fire and killing 95 villagers, over a long-ago theft of 800 or 1000 camels. So my route to Nairobi was blocked. OK, I take another route. But that's another story...

'I have never, except by an effort of will, wished that the passing moment might linger so that I could get more enjoyment from it, for even when it has brought me something I had immensely looked forward to, my imagination in the very moment of fulfillment has been busy with the problematic delight of whatever was to come.' (-W. Somerset Maugham)

 

'What, at this moment, is lacking?' (-Eckhart Tolle)

 


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